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Pre-colonial Ndebele clothing

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Mzala Tom

Ndebele clothing was generally derived from various animal skins that were tanned and cut to different shapes and sizes.
Different clothing materials and beads were also incorporated through trade and cultural exchanges over time.
Tanning of animal skins was done by men. After animals were killed the skins were dried through being streched and pegged on the ground.

An invite was given to the neighbours, family and friends to attend the tanning gathering characterised by feasting and merry making.

A group of men would attend to one hide. First they had to scrub off the inner side of the hide using a sharp metal object known as isancele.

The men usually fought for this role as the inner skin meat, impalo was a delicacy that they would take home to cook and eat.
This was the first stage of the tanning process. The second stage was done after a few days.

This stage also required another invite to be issued to the neighbours, family and friends. This is when the actual tanning took place.

Tanning was done using umchapho or insipho.

The hide was soaked in umchapho or insipho. After that they would scrub the inner side of the hide using ukhuhlo until the skin was visible.

Lastly the skin was hand washed in umchapho or insipho and then dried.

Young boys wore ibhetshu lendlegu and idumbu. Ibhetshu is a tanned animal skinned which is cut in a skirt like form to cover the front or back. Ibhetshu lendlegu is made from the skin of undlegu, a squirrel.

Slightly older boys wore idumbu which is a type of ibhetshu made from the skin of inqina/a small antelope , the skin of izinyane/a kid/the young one of a goat or ubuchakide, a black tailed mangoose.

Young girls generally wore ububendle and utshananda. These are aprons made from weaving the ububendle plant to cover the front. Utshananda is a pleated little skirt for slightly older girls made from pieces of black clothing material.
Women wore a special type of ibhetshu made from goat skin known as imapa. These were worn to cover the front and the back just like men did.

Umsinsi was a pleated short black skirt which had iphehla applied to it to make it soft.
On this skirt amantiya/colourful buttons or beads were sworn decoratively. Women wore imisisi for important occasions and cremonies like weddings.

Ingubhamazwi was a special robe/gown made from impala or cow skin. Women wore this special gown for very important occasions.

Holes were made on the animal skin after tanning it, and in the holes they would insert insimba, genet tails for decoration. Other decorations were from the umahelane/springhare tails.

For winter, women wore a robe made from sheep skin known as isiqhama. Inempe was a special robe for elderly women made from goat skin.

Usually two skins were combined for it to be big enough to cover the whole body. — (source: @RealMzalaTom)


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